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Written by Brian Joyner   
One of the best parts of the new age of cocktail culture we’re in is that many liquors are being introduced to American palettes for the first time, along with new cocktails. The average guy knows Brazil for Carnival, soccer, “The Girl From Ipanema,” Adriana Lima or Gisele Bundchen (nice work, Tom -- sorry about the knee), and a certain technique in grooming. If that’s the case, then let Be Better Guys be the first, but not the last, to talk with you about cachaça.

What Is It?

Checking out new tastes is one of the best parts about drinking (and eating, and dating. . . ). I’m a brown liquor guy most of the year, except in summer when gin becomes the alternate spirit to scotch and bourbon. However, I like dark rums and some rum cocktails, so I figured cachaça would be a rum substitute. Cachaça is made from sugar cane juice, just like rum, but for me, the similarities end there. A better comparison in taste and in application for the drink is tequila. It has a similar heat and earthiness that you get from tequila. It mixes well, especially in caipirinhas (with lime and sugar), and if you prefer clear liquors, here’s another to add to your repertoire.

Like most spirits around the world, cachaça was made with what was abundant. In Poland, it was potatoes for vodka; in the British Isles, it was wheat and barley for whiskey; in the case of Brazil, the country’s official drink was first distilled about 400 years ago from sugar cane. The sugar cane juice is fermented for 24 hours after extraction, which brings it to about 80 proof (40% alcohol). Most are bottled immediately. The good folks of Brazil are actively protecting this resource, just as wine-producing countries like France and Italy, and spirit producers like Mexico with tequila and Scotland with scotch whiskey. It might be too late to stop the bastardization of samba and all those videos on the Web, but cachaça, whose export has increase more than 3 times since 1999, is being regulated. All this is to say that it’s a good time to take an interest.

Tasting Cachaça

Most traditional cachaças, brands like Pitu and Brand 51 Pirassununga are clear, with the expected heat that fills around your mouth almost like cinnamon. You can smell the sugar cane dancing in your nose as you get ready to take a sip.  It immediately warms you up, but taste really raw and unfinished, like the difference between Jose Cuervo and Patron Silver tequilas. It finishes quickly, with a slight sweetness on the tongue and in the back of your throat. In a caipirinha, the heat is tamed and makes for a nice sipping cocktail. You can probably substitute the lighter cachaça in any tequila based drink and be more than fine with it.

In this day of single barrel bourbons and quadruple distilled vodkas, “aged” cachaça is the new hot thing, like Brazilian supermodels were a few years ago. Aged in wooden casks for at least a year, the spirit takes on a golden cast. The word I got from my boys who’ve traveled to Brazil is that Araxa, Cachaça de Minas is supposed to be the best. It’s an aged cachaça, stored in oak barrels, which give it its pale golden hue. It’s smooth where 51 is hot, caramel where 51 is cinnamon. This bears more resemblance to dark rums like Barbancourt, or more commonly, Captain Morgan. If the light cachaça is for doing shots on the way to the Rio Sambodromo (where a samba competition takes place each year during Carnival), the aged is for the hang at the cafés afterwards, with a nice maduro cigar and some leggy thing nuzzling your neck. In a caipirinha, it’s almost too smooth, needing the bite of its less refined brethren. But neat, or over ice, or with a squeeze of lime, the aged ones are very nice.

At a good liquor store, you can probably find half a dozen cachaça in stock. Leblon is considered a premium cachaça relatively new to the scene and widely available, but Pitu, 51 and others can be had, too. As with so many things, the best stuff doesn’t get imported but you can find good ones. Do yourself a favor, pick up a bottle of cachaça, put on some Seo Tae Ji, Bebel Gilberto, or Gil Gilberto when you get home, and have a glass. We can't guarantee that it will get you Adriana Lima, but you will have a fantastic new liquor for your home bar.

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