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Suit Fit |
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 We can't overstate the importance of making sure your suit fits. Simply put, if the suit doesn't fit, you won't look good. So after you choose the color and style, but before you head to the register, check the fit. That means you have to try it on – the bane of many a man's existence – to be sure it works for your body. Why, you ask? Reason #1: the "standard model" for a suit is a 40 regular jacket, with a 34" waist pants. Reason #2: chances are, that's not you. The following advice will make you and your suit look damn good.Ultimately, a suit has to fit you comfortably for it to be worth buying. If it cuts you wrong or is restrictive, you're going to be unhappy wearing it. Make sure the pants and jacket fit as well as possible before you buy the suit and take it to be altered. This creates the silhouette of the suit, the outline that people will see before anyone can tell the color and pattern. Many things on a suit can be altered, but these are the main places where suit fit is crucial:
- The shoulders and sleeves
- The chest and back
- The tail of the jacket
- The thighs, butt and crotch of the pants
Things to check when buying a suit: A tailor can't make fabric appear where there is none. This means trying each piece on in front of a 3-way mirror and making sure it covers everything it should. For the jacket, lapels shouldn't bow and there shouldn't be any puckering or creasing across your back when you button the jacket. The suit jacket should hug your shoulders, not hang from them like you're a kid in your father's jacket. This applies to sport coats and blazers as well. You should be able to wear no more than a fitted sweater underneath a suit jacket. If you can fit a bullet-proof vest underneath, try a smaller size. The jacket should cover your butt and not much below.
When considering a suit, remember that the pants are as critical as the jacket. Pleated pants are the standard for most suits, but flat front pants are becoming more popular. For more on pants, see the Pants Section.
Pants shouldn't be too snug across the butt or in the crotch. That may look good on a woman, but it doesn't on you. Pants should hit your natural waist, which is just below the navel.
Don't fall in love with clothing that doesn't fit... like Brian and a windowpane sport coat. It was great looking, but the tail was too short. Brian's over 6 ft. and 200+ pounds, so clothes that make him look like Jethro from the Beverly Hillbillies aren't a good thing. The sport coat didn't cover his ass when he tried it on, it didn't cover it when he took it to the tailor, and it didn't cover it when he wore it on stage to all of those gigs. And when he finally gave it away, it still didn't cover his ass. Believe us when we tell you, you'll be unhappy when the photos show up later.
Pant Length: A lot of guys walk around with pants that either flop at their feet or rise above their ankles (cue the flood jokes). At minimum, the hem should touch the top of the shoe, called no break. We suggest a half break—the break is at mid-shin and the fabric covers the top half of the shoe. Some guys like a full break, where the fabric breaks lower on the shin and billows on the top of the shoe and midway down the heel. If they are pleated, make sure the pants are cuffed—between 1 " and 2." Things to keep in mind when you get the suit tailored:
- Sleeve length
- Where the jacket and shirt collars meet
- Room to move through the torso and the ability to use your pockets
- How pants fit your waist
- Pant length
- Pant cuffs
Once you get your suit, it needs to be tailored. No one is built like the standard model used to create suits. If you've never used a tailor before, there are certain things you should expect him to do for you. He's there to make you look good. He'll hide your flaws, highlight your attributes, and help present a more polished version of yourself to the world. He won't make you look like Prince Charles if you're built like the King of Queens. Your tailor ain't a magician.
Things to wear or bring with you when you get your suit tailored:
- A properly fitting dress shirt
- Dress shoes
- Any of the stuff you carry in your suit jacket and pants – wallet, glasses, keys, cell phone, nunchucks
How to Care for Your Suit: Don't clean your suits more than two or three times a year, unless you're rolling in mud or have a bottle of wine spilled in your lap. Dry cleaning chemicals are harsh and will wear it out sooner than you'd like. Brushing the suit after you wear it will remove the loose dirt and keep it in better condition. A gentle soap like Ivory can clean minor spots, and pressing the suit lightly with a steam iron will keep it looking crisp. |
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