 A suit makes it easy to look good. The two major pieces are already coordinated for you. The following are the building blocks for a suit wardrobe: - A medium-weight single-breasted navy suit
- A medium-weight single-breasted charcoal suit
- A pin-striped or glen plaid suit (grey or navy are safe bets)
- A season-specific suit (if you live in a warm climate, poplin or linen; if you live in a cold climate, think tweed or a wool flannel)
Flexibility is the key to putting together the basic wardrobe. Worsted wool is the most common type of fabric for suits -- wool is durable and comfortable. Choosing a medium-weight suit lets you wear it for 8 months of the year. These choices will allow you to get the most wear out of them.
Suit TypesThe type of suit you choose should work with your body type as well as your personal style and wardrobe needs. By suit type we mean single- or double-breasted.
Single-breasted suit
The single-breasted suit is the most common and most versatile type of suit. For a basic wardrobe, this is all you need. Standard single-breasted suits come in two- and three-button varieties.
The three-button model is popular now, but if you have a broader build or are carrying a bit of extra lovin' around the middle, the two-button will give you a longer, more balanced appearance.
Regardless of the button configuration, go with a two-button roll (the lapel rolls inward at the second button, counting from the bottom) for a less constrained look. You should only have two or three buttons on a single-breasted suit. Only NBA draft picks wear multi-buttoned suits, and if you are one, would you give us a call?
Double-breasted suits
A double-breasted suit is a more formal option. The style works well with solid colors or with patterns like glen plaid or pinstripes, but a bad double-breasted suit (and by bad, we mean too many buttons, huge shoulder pads, or cheesy colors) can make you look like an extra in an episode of The Sopranos. For the basic wardrobe, it's a luxury. Remember:
The overlapping fabric wraps around you and adds bulk to your frame, which is a good thing for a guy with a slight build, such as Orlando Bloom. But it's not so good for the heavier guy and may be overwhelming for the shorter guy.
Which Buttons to Button: A lot of guys get this wrong. On a single-breasted, two-button suit, button the top button only. On a three-button suit, definitely button the middle button - the top button can be buttoned as well. Never fasten the bottom button, even if you're cold. Most double-breasted suits have either four or six buttons, equally distributed per side. How it buttons will determine the gorge, basically how much shirt and tie you see when it's buttoned. Four buttons show more of the shirt and adds length. Six buttons cover more, and add formality and bulk.
Slightly different rules apply for double-breasted suits. On a four-button model, usually only one button is functional. On a six-button model, button the middle. Don't wear the jacket unbuttoned, it hangs in a weird way and you look like a flag outside the United Nations. Also, there is an interior button that helps the jacket lay properly. Always button it or the jacket will sag.
Once you have the basics in your wardrobe, you can be bold by venturing into different fabrics and patterns. Play it safe until you get a feel for what works for you. Here are some options:
A black suit gives you a more formal option for evening affairs.
A pale or lighter neutral suit opens up your wardrobe for spring and summer as well as more casual occasions.
A glen plaid, tweed, or herringbone suit gives you stylish options for fall and winter. Poplin, linen, and seersucker are summertime fabric options. Just remember, even though Gregory Peck looked impeccable in seersucker in "To Kill a Mockingbird," it ain't for everyone.
A three-piece suit, a suit that comes with a matching vest, is a very formal option. It takes a certain demeanor to wear a three-piece suit – it helps if you're a CEO, or British – but they’re timeless. Your Dad might have one somewhere in the back of his closet that you could rescue.
David Ventures Into Double-Breasted: After a particularly bad band practice, David went with Brian to meet his tailor. David decided to try on a double-breasted jacket. It wasn't fitting right because David hadn't used the interior button that helps the suit lay correctly. It buttons in reverse and despite being a relatively coordinated guy, he couldn't figure it out. The tailor showed him twice, David still couldn't get it. In disgust, the tailor walked away, but not before he exasperatedly asked Brian, "Can you help him, please? I have work to do." |
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