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Pants |
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Relaxed fit, slim fit, full cut, classic cut,
and baggy. There are a whole lot of options, but only a few
styles are appropriate for the office. Four to six pairs of pants
for work should do it, and khakis don't count. A few points
about pants: Just as with your suit, medium-weight wool pants are your best bet. Buying lined pants will protect the fabric, keep you warmer, and cut down on the itchiness.
Corduroy and heavier wools are options for colder months. For the spring and summer months, linen and cotton are breathable, comfortable options.
Don't let patterns scare you — actually, they probably should scare you.
Patterns are not like stereo speakers; louder is not better. Small
checks,
stripes, or herringbone are good alternatives to standard blue and navy
pants. Tweeds, which come in a range of colors and styles, also work
well.
If the pants have belt loops, then wear a belt.
Never wear braces (suspenders) with a belt. No team needs Randy Moss and Terrell Owens. It's one or the other.
Pants Fit
Whatever the style, just know that pants must fit through the legs, the
butt, and crotch. If not, you'll be uncomfortable and irritable with unsightly bulges, which will make us uncomfortable
and irritable.
The rise is the distance from the waistband to the crotch. As we mentioned with suit pants, the rise should be long enough so that
it doesn't cut you in the crotch.
Pants that are too tight across the butt are not sexy. While we don't advocate the "full-diaper" look with too much fabric in the butt, too little is nasty.
The inseam is the length of the legs, from
the crotch to the bottom of the pants. The bottom of the pant leg
should cover the top of the shoe and about midway down the heel. Asking a tailor for a half break should get it for you. Ill-Fitting, Ill-Feeling: David bought a pair of pants that were
originally $150 for $30 (David has trouble resisting a deal) from a
consignment shop. Unfortunately, they didn't really
fit. The pants were too tight in the seat, the rise was too
short, and he was always hacked-off because his, um, goods were always
being split apart by the pants. No tailor or amount of money
could fix the problem, so eventually David conceded defeat and out they
went.
Pants Details
Two of the most important details on pants are the width of the pant leg and whether to have pleats or not:
You have two options for work pants, narrow-legged and full-legged. That means ultra-baggy pants or skin-tight ones aren't appropriate for the
office. We recommend something in between Interpol (too
narrow) and Fat Joe (too baggy) for office wear.
Pleated pants: Front folds at the
waistband are more common with suits and dressier clothing and are a
bit roomier. Keep the pleats to a minimum of 1 or 2
pleats — any more than that and it's Hammer Time! — and they should not pull
open when standing. If they do, they're too narrow through the
hips, so get another size. Pleated pants sit at the natural
waist, which is just below your navel. Cuffs, 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 inches
wide, present a polished look with pleated pants and allow the pants to
hang better.
Flat front pants: Smooth across the
front, these offer a slimmer fit and are more flattering for many
guys. Generally speaking, they're more casual, but they're
showing up as stylish officewear more frequently. They should
fit lower on the hip and generally should not be cuffed, even with a
suit. This style is a more modern look and works well with fitted
shirts or slimmer sweaters when worn without a suit jacket. |
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