I look good in a suit. How do I know? Because random people tell me so, like when I'm at the office, at restaurants, or at a bar. Oh, sure, my family members, my wife and sales people trying to get me to buy stuff tell me I look good in a suit, too. But they're supposed to compliment me. The true test is when someone who doesn't really know me says something. That's when I know my work is paying off. While I'd like to give all the credit to my stunning good looks, impeccable genetics, and NFL-caliber workout routines (you do realize I'm lying here), the truth is that it has to do with making the right choices when buying a suit. It has a lot to do with knowing my size, choosing a style that works with my body, and having a tailor that understands what I am trying to achieve. You see, every guy may not look good in denim and cowboy boots (not my thing at all), but a suit can do wonders for any guy, if you know how to choose one.
Be Better Guys has been yapping about knowing how to buy a suit, but that and $1.50 will get you a cup of coffee. So we're going through the suit-buying process with you. You can read about types and style of suits and how a suit should fit separately, but this is for what to do at the point of attack. We'll set up the need-to-know answers you must have before you walk into a store and find yourself at the mercy of a sales person who may or may not have your best interest at heart. You gonna trust your suit purchase to some dude in a periwinkle suit and gator shoes or you gonna trust us?
Suits, In GeneralIf you're like most guys and not into shopping (unless it's for a new driver or a set of stereo speakers), the process of buying a suit can be overwhelming, so narrow your criteria before walking in the door. No one clothing item can do what a suit can do for you, so don't you think you should put a bit of thought into it? You want to think about styles and colors. You'll probably have an idea as to color, but do you want a two-button or three-button model? A single-breasted suit or a double-breasted one? What about a pattern? Take a look at our suit discussion to get familiar with some of those details, but here's the quick and dirty:
The suit has to work for your body, the one you currently have. A suit can mask a multitude of sins and accentuate your best points if you choose wisely, but it can't make you what you're not. You won't suddenly become 6'2'' if you're, well, 5'2" and a suit can't hide those 20 lbs you've been thinking about dropping. Speaking of size, heavier guys should avoid small patterns like tight pinstripes, checks, or glen plaid. They will make you look like one huge optical illusion. Conversely, thinner guys should use patterns and consider a double-breasted suit. Both will give the impression of a bigger frame, without a bunch of padding or time in the gym.
Never buy a suit the color of an Easter egg, an M&M, or the Tampa Bay Devil Rays uniforms. Don't decide to bring out your inner Huggy Bear just in time for Maggie and Kevin's engagement party.
Black suits have been very popular for a number of years, but they're really not appropriate for day-time wear. Most guys look like they've either came from a funeral or are on their way to work as a bellman at the new boutique hotel in town. Charcoal grey will do just as well for most occasions.
If in doubt, wear navy or grey. It'll be boring, but you'll look sharp.
Suits should go with shirts and ties you already own. Which means, when it's time to break down and buy a suit, either bring a shirt and tie or two that you wear often to be sure they coordinate.
Go for versatility. A few well chosen suits can take you a long way. Your shirts and ties are where you mix things up, not your suits.
Go For QualityWhatever you choose, buy the best quality suit you can afford. What does that mean? It means (Warning: boring technical jargon approaching):
Go for a suit with higher twist count fabric. "WTF?" you're asking right now. The more twists you get on two threads of wool, the finer the fabric. The average suit you'll find runs around 80 twist count and above 120 is considered fine grade. Current technologies allow for twist counts as high as 180, but let's just say that you could put that money toward a deposit on a condo and go for super 120s.
Pay attention to the detailing (no, not detailing your Camry), such as the type of lapels, working buttonholes on the sleeves, an interesting interior silk lining, the type of buttons (plastic, horn or shell), or even if and where the vents on the jacket are (center or side vents). All these things tell you someone took care in constructing this suit.
Hand finishing makes for a better looking and fitting suit. Things like hand rolled lapels and cuffs, and sewing the inner shell to the outer shell of the jacket rather than gluing or "fusing," make a difference. See the guy in the lumpy, wrinkled -looking jacket? That's what happens to glued/fused jackets.
Unless the suit's for summer, always look for fully lined pants. The pants will wear longer and hang better.
What's the occasion?Ok, why are you buying a suit? Simply put, not all suits are for all occasions. You wouldn't go looking for an economy car if what you wanted was a sports car, would you? Are you going to a wedding or another event? Is it for work? Or, do you need something to go out on the town in? This will impact what type of suit you choose.
If you need a suit for going out on the town, you'll want something with some flash to it like a single-button suit with peaked lapels, with a livelier color like steel blue, or an uncommon finish like sharkskin. Think funky, not frumpy. You don't want the same suit you're wearing to a job interview, unless you're looking for work with Miami Vice.
Going to a wedding or another special occasion? Keep it low-key and elegant, with muted colors like blue or camel, and subtle patterns like glen plaid. You can dress up the accessories like your tie or shirt to express your inner Vince Vaughn.
If you're getting a suit for work, be conservative in color and cut – navy or grey are classic, either in solid color or with low-key pinstripes. Brown can work well, too, but not until you have your navy and grey in place. Go with a two-button model or a three-button model with a two-button roll.
To get the most wear, you should get a medium-weight wool suit. You'll be able to wear it 8 months out of the year in most climates.
Wrap It UpNext and possibly the most important thing, you need to know before buying is your size. Despite the fact you're still at your at your "college fight weight," you're probably bigger in the body and the legs than you think. It would be worth a trip in advance to a tailor to get measured so you have a baseline to start with. Regardless, you'll need to try on every suit in front of a three-way mirror (with dress shoes and the stuff you would normally carry with you). Ultimately, the suit has to fit in the following places before you buy. Your tailor may be a magician, but even he has his limits.
For the jacket to fit, the arm holes have to line up with the edges of your shoulders and the body must fit snugly through the torso. You need enough room to carry your glasses, cell phone, and wallet while wearing a light sweater.
The sleeves of the jacket hit the crook of your wrist. They can be a bit longer and a tailor will take care of that, but absolutely no shorter or you'll look like Steve Martin in "The Jerk."
The lapels of the suit jacket should lie neatly across your chest. Not too tight like you're the keyboardist in Slipknot, but also not too loose where they're flapping in the breeze like the wings of a sting ray (next beer's for you, Steve Irwin).
The tail of the jacket has to cover yours. A good measure is dropping your hands by your side and cupping them beneath the jacket. If it touches your palm, you're in good shape, unless you have the wing span of Kevin Garnett.
You should be able to put two fingers in the waist band of your pants. If your pants make your thighs look like Apolo Anton Ohno's during the 500-meter speed skate, they're too tight. You want a relaxed drape, a straight line from your hip down to the top of your shoe.
Butt cleavage and camel-toe aren't sexy (seriously, it's not a good look), so make sure the pants aren't snug across you behind and that the rise (the distance between your waist and your crotch) is high enough to cover your underwear and keep the family jewels from being cramped. More importantly, it will give you a polished look when you take off your jacket.
The length of the pants is the distance of the inseam to the top of your foot. With a suit, the pants will be unhemmed, so this shouldn't be an issue. But have them tailored for either a half-break or a full break (See Suit Fit [Link to Suit Fit] for more on different breaks on pant legs).
Also the cut of the suit will impact the size. The average suit you'll come across in the store will be what's known as a "drop six," meaning the jacket size is 6 inches larger than the pants (e.g., if you're a 42 regular jacket, the corresponding pants will be a 36). If you spend time at the gym (and good for you if you do), try to find "athletic cut" suits with a bigger drop (8 or 10 inches) or suit separates to better match you actual size. For example,
- American-model suits are cut fuller in the body, with larger arm holes. Think JFK.
- British suits have a more defined waist and more padding in the shoulders (very Pierce Brosnan in the Bond films).
- Italian models go for a trim silhouette, with higher arm holes and narrower arms. George Clooney, all the way.
All of these things will impact how the suit looks on you, so figure out which will work best for your body by deciding what look you like, asking your girlfriend for her opinion (you want her to look at you and swoon like she does for Timberlake) and consulting that tailor of yours.
Money Can't Buy EverythingThe last thing is how much do you want to pay? More money means more options. You can get a perfectly good suit for less than $400, but the latter requires you to put in a bit more leg work. Saying you can get a quality product inexpensively is one thing. Knowing where to get quality men's clothes cheaply helps. We've broken down the types of stores to find men's suits by price point and the pros and cons for each.
Inexpensive ($200-$400) Where? Discount stores, such as Men's Warehouse, Filene's Basement, Marshall's, and Century 21.
Pros: Cheap alternative to department stores and men's shops for suits of decent quality. We've had outstanding luck at these stores, finding suits by Calvin Klein, Kenneth Cole, Barneys and Hugo Boss.
Cons: Catch-as-catch can; items can be a season or more behind.
"Box" clothing stores, such as Banana Republic, J Crew, and French Connection.
Pros: Moderately priced, brand- and style-specific. Suit quality has improved greatly in the last few years and you can find some good, classic styles. Jackets and pants can be purchased as separates.
Cons: A lot of guys buy their suits at Banana Republic and JCrew, so you risk looking like a lot of other guys. Salespeople don't know squat about how a suit should fit.
Moderate ($400-$700)Where? Men's shops, such as Joseph A. Banks, Brooks Brothers.
Pros: Great place to get classic, timeless staples of your wardrobe. Good quality suits that will last for years.
Cons: Not trendy. You might wind up looking like Ward Cleaver .
Department stores, such as Macy's, Robinson's, and Nordstrom's
Pros: Centrally located, multiple brands make you sure to find something, particularly staple items. Cons: Relatively fixed prices, not the most original selections. Can be hit-or-miss on getting a knowledgeable salesperson.
Expensive ($700-above)Where? Designer stores/showrooms, such as Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Burberry's,and Paul Smith .
Pros: Stylish, hip, with an eye toward more modern pieces. For the beautiful and trendy.
Cons: Expensive, not readily accessible, might be too much (cost and fashion) for the average guy.
High-end department stores, such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Louis Boston, and Barney's.
Pros: Multiple designer brands make you sure to find something, particularly staple items.
Cons: Cost-prohibitive for the everyday guy.
So, you got it? You need to know what type of suit you want, what you're buying it for, what your true size is, and finally how much you want to pay. There's one other thing to factor in, your audience. See, we originally had a guy we took out to do this with, and we hit several types of stores and found a suit. Unfortunately, his wife didn't like the suit he chose . . . V-E-T-O.
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