When many people think of custom suits, they often think of one of two things: either a “Neon” Deon Sanders-type suit with unusual colors and some, uh, very unique features (eight buttons, giant lapels, tassels etc., etc.); or, they think of their grandfather’s tailor and a suit that costs over $3,000. The fact is, most custom suits are somewhere in between the two. I’d like to tell you about why I think owning a custom suit is a good idea. And no doubt, I’m certainly biased. It’s the business I’m in because I believe in the results–and more importantly, so do my clients.

Owning a custon-fit suit ensures a better fit, frequently offers long-term maintenance, gives the owner increased confidence in how he looks, and provides expert advice. You can't replicate the quality and craftsmanship that goes into a hand-made suit. This makes the suit a signature piece of your wardrobe. 

• First, let me dispel the myth that all custom suits are at least $3,000. While one can purchase a several-thousand-dollar custom suit, many custom suits are not significantly more expensive than a higher-end, off-the-rack suit. For example, a Hugo Boss or Ralph Lauren off-the-rack suit will usually range from $800 to $1,300 or more. A well-fitted custom suit will start at around $1,100 (granted, there can be many variables to the price, such as quality of the fabric and construction grade), plus you will have hundreds of fabrics to choose from. 
  
• Although most custom suits are more expensive than most off-the-rack suits, you have to consider your suit purchase an investment. The suit is the staple of a professional man’s wardrobe and care must be given during selection. Chances are, you’ll have your suit for many years and although it may be a bit more painful at purchase time, you’ll be very pleased with the durability and the great fit of something that, though it cost a bit more, was made for you.  Especially when you put it on 10, 15 years from now.
  

Maintenance and Personalization

• Should you choose to go custom, find a shop where they will do repairs for you free as long as you own the garment. This would include things like ripped seams, broken zippers, buttons that have popped off, etc. Howver, this may exclude fabric tears. 
  
• Another benefit of purchasing a custom suit is the tailor can consider your various habits into the suit’s construction. Do you always put your wallet in you back, left pocket? Do you travel frequently? Do you have a tendency to lean on your right elbow? Knowing these considerations, the tailor can adjust the suit to make it more durable in specific locations of the suit and compensate for certain consistent behaviors or motions that you, and only you, favor.
  

Label/Fit

• Don’t be one of those guys that purchases something just because of the sex appeal of the brand (a “label whore”).  Don’t fall sucker to expensive advertising and branding. Sometimes, that’s why their suits cost what they do , not because they’re of better quality (and they pass the cost of those sexy magazine models on to you).
  
• Also, be aware that ready-made is just that - it’s made for the masses and ony fits a very few people well. My guess is that 35% of the population can have a suit altered and have it fit perfectly. The other 65% would be better off having someone with a trained eye (not just a retail sales person) advise you as to what would look best. A good tailor or stylist can identify the strengths and weaknesses of your unique build, and use various illusions (via the lines and proportions of the suit) to make you look better. Due to the numerous measurements (over 25) and styling options, many finely-tuned tweaks can be done to assure a precision fit and a remarkable outcome. 
  

Style

• One of the fun things about a custom suit is the opportunity to “design” it yourself. You can choose the overall cut, and select from hundreds of fabrics, the number of buttons, working sleeves, edge stitching, button stance, lapel styles, lining color, number of pockets and pocket preferences, vent options, number of pleats and much more. All this can be done in just an hour or two with a tailor (it could easily take you many hours to see and try-on even a dozen suits at a department store).
  
• Of course, if you’re not sure what preferences you want, ask your tailor. He’ll make suggestions based on what you already have in your professional wardrobe and where you’ll be wearing your suit (work/interviews/salescalls/social engagements). If you don’t see eye-to-eye with him on his recommendations, go elsewhere. It should be a parttnership between his recommendations and your preferences, too; this is not a dictatorship.
   

The Role of the Suit as Business Staple/Strength of the Wardrobe

• Regardless of whether you’re looking for a custom suit or not, determine what the primary purpose of the suit is. If you’re just beginning to build your wardrobe, start with a staple: a solid navy or charcoal suit. These will be very versatile and can be dressed up or down depending on the situation. For a conservative atmosphere, like the first interview, wear a solid white or blue shirt (a little texture is fine) with a tie that can bring it all together. For a less conservative environment, wear a brighter shirt or bolder shirt pattern. Choose a matching tie or go tie-less. 
  
• If you’ve already got the basics covered, and are looking for a more social suit, don’t be afraid to throw in a bolder pattern. Just be careful it doesn’t overpower you. Not everyone is ready for a bold windowpane (large-square pattern, very bold) and you don't want to look like a clown. If you’re not sure, get some consultation.

Although I have really only focused on the suit–the most powerful piece of the man’s wardrobe, many of the same benefits apply to shirts and sport jackets. So if nothing else, when you feel your budget is ready, try to get at least one perfect-fitting garment in your wardrobe. This will be your most versatile piece; one that can be dressed up or down for most occasions. Besides, most would agree with quality over quantity.  So spend a few more bucks and get something that makes you look and feel like a million bucks. Just be aware, after the stream of continuous compliments, it may be addictive. Consider yourself warned!

Matt Landsberg is the proprietor of Eric Finn Custom Clothing. He’s available to answer questions about custion suits, shirts, sports jackets, or tuxedos at mlandsberg@ericfinn.com