Be Better Guys

Everywhere I look now, I see people’s socks. Let me rephrase: everywhere I look online, I see socks. Every men’s style blog, magazine, or advice column is pushing colorful, whimsical socks as a must-have for any well-dressed man. No longer can the well-dressed man get by with just the Bee-Gees for socks (brown, black, blue, and gray). Like pocket squares and tie bars, your sock game has become an important part of your overall style. I, for one, think this is a good thing.

I’ve always been a sock guy. Back in high school as I started being concerned about dressing better–well, if imitating Morris Day and the Time is dressing better–I almost immediately gravitated toward socks as a difference-maker. Pin-dot, small geometric patterns, an occasional stripe, argyle (it was the 80s), and some wackier prints. I fully embraced white socks as a fashion statement with a black suit and black penny loafers. Then, styles changed with a fuller cut for men’s clothing in the 90s. The shoes were heavier–lug soles instead thin leather ones; chunky instead of sleek–the pants were longer. Your socks didn’t get the kind of play they did in the decade before.

In comes the new millennium, with Mad Men, Thom Browne, a revival of men’s fashion, and a more body-conscious fit. Instead of pants pooling around your ankles, a half-break or even no break at all have become the norm. Shoes are getting more attention. That means socks are seeing the light of day more often. Bold color palettes and strong patterns, these socks have an opinion. And right on cue, designers began investing some of their creativity into more stylish options. Once, you needed to visit a specialty shop for accessories or some place like the Sock Shop. Now, everyone from Nicole Miller to Hugo Boss to Tommy Hilfiger has a sock line with funky colors and patterns. Even better, you can get sharp-looking socks from your local department store like Macy’s or Marshall Fields. Getting into this aspect of men’s style doesn’t cost an arm and a leg.

The Rules of Socks

So, how do you step it up? The same rules that applied with the solid socks you inherited from you Pops still work. But we tweaked them a bit for the new style.

• The socks should match your pants. But, gray pants don’t have to have gray socks. I wore a light gray flannel suit recently with a pale green shirt and blue-green tie. I wore green socks with heather gray, white, and navy stripes and brown shoes. It worked. If that’s too big a leap, try a sock with same color as the pants with small patterns in brighter colors.
• The key is complementary colors and hues. With the new emphasis on color, complement  is probably a better choice of words than match. Why not add a pop of color? I’ve seen navy suits with electric blue socks. Was it overkill? Maybe, but if you’re wearing a plaid with several colors, why not pick one to or two and match your socks to those colors instead of the primary one? Color should enhance, not overwhelm.
• Patterns should be in balance. Just like with your ties, bold pattern for the suit, smaller pattern for the socks. Can there be contrast, like stripes with argyle, plaid with shapes? Yes, but the contrast needs balance. There is a place for solid socks in this wackiness, just refer to the above rule to ensure maximum impact.
• Know your socks. In no way shape or form am I telling you to pair the fabric of your socks to your pants. What I am telling you is that wool socks are invaluable in cold weather, silk will cover most occasions, cotton can be had everywhere, and non-natural materials will hold sweat and heat more than natural ones, but also retain their shape longer.
• Socks aren’t the star of the show. Legendary producer Robert Evans once told Esquire : “If I go to a party and eight different people come over to me and say, “Gee, that’s a great-looking tie,” as soon as I get home, I take the tie off and put it in the shredder. Screw the tie! I’m not there to make the tie look good. The tie is there to make me look good.”  Consider this with your socks, but you don’t have to shred them.

Last thing: screw the rules. Let your eyes and instincts be your guides. If it looks right, go with it. Be Better Guys has been a big fan of Smart Turnout and their line of socks (pictured above, Royal Navy Socks, $29) and the terracotta red and gold joints from Marko John for Image Granted are nice at $18. Find few pairs and give them a spin around the office.

Brian Joyner is co-creator of Be Better Guys.